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FAQs

+ Does your city allow pigs?

This is one of the most important questions you can ask. MANY people get pigs not knowing what restrictions are imposed by their city, county or HOA. Do not get a pig until you are 100% sure you can legally have one, or you may be forced to give up your pig or move! Pigs, even pet pigs, are considered livestock by the USDA and all governing bodies. Check with your local ordinances to ensure pigs are allowed in your city. ​

+ What is a mini pig? What is a micro pig? Are they real?

The term "mini pig" is popular in the pig community and refers to potbelly pigs who are naturally "mini" compared to the standard farm pigs who are 800+lbs when fully grown! We don't use the term "mini" pig as it can give improper expectations. Keep in mind, a 350 lb potbelly pig is mini, by comparison, but probably isn't 'mini' enough for most lifestyles!

"Micro," "teacup," "nano," "pixie" - these are all misleading terms by breeders who are trying to turn a substantial profit! They don't exist...and your "micro" pig will be 100 lbs after a couple of years! Learn more about the Micro Pig Myth!

+ How big are potbelly pigs?

A healthy potbelly pig can weigh between 80-250lbs, no matter what a breeder says. Pigs grow until they are five years old, and are always very small at birth. There is no 100% accurate way to predict what the full grown size of a pig might be. If you have a size restriction, then a pig may not be right for your family. Pigs can also reproduce at just 3 months old, so even seeing a piglet's parents might not be a good indicator of your pig's full-grown size.

+ Should I adopt or buy from a breeder?

If you plan to add a pig to your family, why not also do as much good as possible? Over 90% of people who buy a pig from a breeder end up surrendering the pig to shelters, rescues, or just abandoning them outside (often to be picked up by animal control). Shelters are not equipped for pigs, most rescues are overburdened, and animal control doesn't have many options, and often euthanize a pig after 10 days in holding. Supporting breeders supports a cycle of pig abandonment and cruelty. Pigs are rehomed for many reasons (such as size, moving to an area that doesn't allow pigs, behavioral challenges, and financial constraints), and those pigs deserve kindness and a second chance.

Pigs who are used to living in a home do well to transition to another home. Pigs are resilient and so appreciative of compassion and love. Every day, our Rehoming Network on Facebook has new owner surrender cases that have no where else to turn. We hope you'll consider adopting your pig through this, or another similar network local to you.

+ What kind of space does a pig need?

Pigs do best with a lot of outside time. They will need a safe, secure space in which to root and play. They will also need to be provided with shelter from the elements (such as a small barn with straw for bedding), always have fresh water available and have a shaded pool or wallow in the summer to help them stay cool. Pigs are tough on a yard and will tear up the grass and soil while rooting. If you live in an apartment, a pig might not be right for you. Please realize that when a pig's needs are met (digging, pool-time, etc), their confidence and contentment will be much more apparent, making them a better family member.

Pigs also need good fencing that most secure at the bottom so as to not be pushed up by strong snouts. Never use nose rings to prevent rooting, escaping, or digging. This is a cruel method that prohibits a pig's favorite activity and way of exploring their world. If you value a perfectly manicured lawn, then a pig isn't for you!

+ My pig is not neutered or spayed. what should I do?

You should spay or neuter your pig as quickly as possible! Pigs who are intact, particularly males, often exhibit aggressive behaviors based on their hormones. Always spay and neuter your pigs (and pets in general!). ​

Male pigs will start to show signs of sexual maturity by 2 months, and female pigs will start to show signs of sexual maturity by 3 months. If you've acquired in-tact pigs for any reason, separate them right away until you can (at least) get the boys neutered! After they've been neutered, a boy may still be fertile for up to 45 days, and quarantine away from unspayed females should continued until after that period of time! We recommend not allowing the boys and girls to even share a fence line, as motivated boys can perform amazing feats of escape. Pigs can have litters of 4-12, and avoiding an accidental litter at all cost is essential.

If you love pigs, please do your part in preventing more piglets!

+ Aren't pigs just big dogs?

In all the ways that pigs deserve respect and compassion, pigs are very much like dogs. But in the ways that pigs integrate with their family, there are MANY differences between pigs and dogs. Pigs are loving, enjoy cuddling, belly rubs, and are often super chatty with their people. However, the biggest difference between pigs and dogs is that dogs are often willing to do anything for their parents. Pigs are highly self-concerned, more intellectually and emotionally complex, and independently-minded. They require a lot of stimulation (and have been known to make messes and get destructive if left alone for too long!). Dogs will often love everyone they meet, but pigs are skeptical and discerning. Their trust is earned, not given. Pigs are more like people than dogs in a lot of ways. They can hold grudges, and become disappointed when trust is broken. Their bond with a human is like no other - when abandoned by their family, pigs often slump into depression.

Check out one of the entries below about pig and dog relationships within families.

+ What can I expect from a pig's behavior?

A pig parent's goal should be to enable confidence in their pig. Confidence comes from security in their social standing, which is structured as a ladder with each person and animal in the family on a separate rung. By asserting leadership qualities, you and your human family members can comfortably establish yourself as higher on the ladder. When pigs feel confident in their social structure, they're much happier. ​

As mentioned, a pig's trust is earned, not given. As prey animals, pigs are biologically vigilant about what may threaten their life and resources. In fact, most of their behavior (or behavioral issues within a family) can be traced back to a sense of resource insecurity. Housing, bedding, food, water, affection, belly rubs...all of these are resources! Does your pig snap at your new boyfriend? Well, that's because your affection and attention is considered a valuable resource and your boyfriend is threatening that.

Social considerations affect all part of a pig's hierarchy of needs, thus affecting their confidence and happiness. A pig's hierarchy of needs include sexual needs (that's another reason to spay/neuter), food, water, shelter, and finally companionship. When one need is reconciled, they can focus on the next one, but new people or animals "threaten" each of those, even when you know your pig will ALWAYS have their needs met.

In their herd, pigs arrange themselves in a linear hierarchy, often matriarchal. Your whole family is their herd! A pig who is lower on the social ladder will always defer to pigs above them. Being "lower" in their hierarchy doesn't have to be a negative for a pig - once a pig finds their "place," they'll be happier and more confident (just like people!). But in a situation of scarcity, the lowest pigs will allow the higher pigs access to the best resources. Pigs communicate by nipping each other, vocalizations, and will sometimes ask permission of higher pigs when choosing their place to lay.

Trust is learned through repeated safe interactions. Consistency is key. If you chase, hit, or "attack" your pig, you become a predator, and lose that trust. Consistently giving snacks and affection for good behavior is important. If your pig charges you, stand your ground to claim that "space" they might want instead of rewarding them by moving off the space and thus deferring to them. Boundaries build confidence.

Struggling with your pig's behavior? Visit our Pig Parent Support Group on Facebook or drop us an email.

+ What should I feed my pig?

An adult pig's diet should be low protein and low fat. For adult pigs looking to maintain weight, we recommend feeding 1 cup of high quality miniature pig feed twice/day for pigs up to 150 lbs. Pigs love salads, vegetables, and fruits as well, but generally we recommend using those as supplements and snacks (not as a replacement for a meal).

Pigs need access to lots of fresh water, as well, as they can dehydrate easily. Look for bowls that are difficult to tip, as they love to tip their bowls to lay in!

+ What do I do about my pig's tusks?

Do not pull your pig's tusks! The tusks are attached to their jaw, and removal can cause lots of long term issues. Tusks should be trimmed though, by you, a farrier, or vet. All pigs get tusks, even girls, but boys' tend to grow faster and earlier in life.

+ What about hooves?

Pig hooves need to be maintained and trimmed regularly. When hooves are overgrown, they can cause issues with their gait, resulting in discomfort and arthritis. If you aren't comfortable trimming your pig's hooves, contact a traveling farrier, such as the Mini Pig Farrier.

+ What about skin care?

A pig's skin needs conditioning just like ours. Espree Aloe Conditioning Spray is a great product that serves to moisturize and offer sun protection. Pigs who spend a lot of time in sun need sunblock, especially on their sensitive ears. Your pig may also lose their hair in the summer, which may present some temporary discomfort for them.

Dry and scaly skin can be a pre-mite condition, and regular deworming (ivermectin orally or by injection) can help prevent that dryness. Flaxseed and a healthy, diverse diet can also help.

If your pig gets a red or rashy condition not solved by the above, we use Desitin (baby rash cream) which is zinc oxide (good for inner thigh, behind the ears, between toes).

+ What vaccinations should a pig have?

Pigs are prone to several diseases. We recommend Parapleuro Shield P+BE which protects against Actinobacillus pleuropneumoniae serotypes 1, 5 and 7, Bordetella bronchiseptica, Erysipelothrix rhusiopathiae, Haemophilus parasuis, and Pasteurella multocida Type A.

Pigs also need to be regularly dewormed. Injectable ivermectin 2x per year will help against all kinds of internal and topical parasites including mites and lice.

+ How do I know if my pig isn't feeling well?

As prey animals, pigs are very stoic and often don't show signs of their illness until their condition has escalated. If a pig stops eating and drinking, or appears atypically lethargic, there is a problem, and your pig should be seen by a vet for bloodwork. Do not delay. Diarrhea can be an indicator of something serious, such as systemic renal issues, and should be taken very seriously.

Dippity Pig Syndrome is a common condition brought on usually by stress. Weakness in the legs, intense pain, lesions on their back, are all clinical signs of this condition. Stressors could include a change of environment, presence of a dog or new person, a car ride, or anything outside of their normal routine, or internal stressors like new food. While there are no medications to explicitly help or prevent this condition, an episode of dippity should begin and end within 24-72 hours. Stress management, hydration, pain management drugs, and topical ointments for lesions are all steps you can take to help your pig through this time. Learn more about Dippity Pig Syndrome here.

If in doubt, go to a vet. Vet care for pigs is costly, but catching issues sooner than later can help mitigate costs and, more importantly, save their life. View vet info for Central Texas.

+ Why do people rehome their pigs?

Most pigs who are adopted/purchased are rehomed at least once in their lifetime. Most often, it's because of incorrect expectations. Below are some of the most common reasons we've gotten from people needing to surrender their pig:

• They expected their pig to be smaller.
• They're moving some place that pigs aren't allowed.
• Divorce/life changes are changing their lifestyle, and the pig no longer fits in, or finances have made it difficult
• The pig charges/snaps at their kid/boyfriend/mother/guests/etc
• They didn't realize they couldn't have a pig in their city, and now Animal Control has asked them to get rid of the pig
• They expected the pig to be more affectionate/different (dog-like)
• The pig doesn't get along well with other pigs or pets Healthy pigs live 15-20 years, and having a 15 year old strong toddler can be challenging for some people. We know things happen, life changes, and we can't always look 15 years into the future with certainty. But before you bring a pig into your family, we encourage you to control what you can - spend time with pigs, talk to pig parents, set proper expectations for yourself and your family, and have contingency plans in case of life changes or if having a pig is more challenging than you thought. Pigs are not simple or easy animals, but they deserve the loyalty and stability that we all want in our lives and relationships. If you don't think you can provide that, a pig might not be for you, as rehoming a pig can often be a death sentence.

+ How can I rehome my pig?

We never want to see pigs get rehomed, as it is often distressing to them, causing them to grieve for their lost family. We would be happy to schedule a donation-based behavioral consultation with you to help you work through any issues to help you keep your pig in your family.

If you are totally unable to keep your pig, and would like some help rehoming, please visit our CTPR Rescue and Rehoming Facebook page.

+ Do pigs get along with dogs and other animals?

While pigs can get along well with other barnyard animals and cats, you must use extreme caution with dogs. Dog attacks are common and one of the leading causes of death in pet pigs (that includes sibling dogs). Dogs are predators and pigs are prey animals, no matter how well behaved the dog there can be some hard-wired instincts to go after the pig. Pigs can also be extremely pushy towards other animals but have no way to defend themselves if they go too far and often end up injured in a fight. Pigs and dogs should never be alone unsupervised, even if they appear to be friends. They should have separate spaces to stay in when unsupervised.

Pigs and dogs communicate very differently. Play from a dog can be seen as aggression by a pig, and vice versa. This confusion can cause one to lash out, and in these situations, the pig is often the one to endure more harm that could be fatal.

Cats and chickens are some of the best friends we can recommend as companions for your pig.

+ What is their vet care like?

Vet care for a pet pig can be challenging and costly. Because pigs are often raised for food and not intended for long, full, or healthy lives, there is not as much knowledge on the topic of pig health as there is for other animals. Many of our vets encounter "firsts" when we bring our pigs to them.

Many small animals vet will not see pigs and you will have to seek out someone with experience. Pig vet visits typically cost more, as they are an exotic animal and not as common for most clinics. Pigs do not do well with anesthesia and need to have a special type used (Isoflorine or ISO). Spaying or neutering your pet pig is extremely important and can be quite costly (typically $250-$400 for a spay and $100-$300 for neutering). Male pigs that are unaltered emit a strong smelling musk and can act aggressively towards people or other animals. Un-spayed females can forget where to go to the bathroom, act aggressively or whine uncontrollably when they come into heat every 21 days. Additionally, uterine cancer in unfixed female pigs is incredibly high and signs usually begin to show around 5 years old. ​

+ What kind of routines do they like?

Pigs thrive on routine, which means their owners must also stick to that routine. Meal times should occur at the same time every day, which means you need to get up every morning and be home at the same time every single day. Failure to stick to a routine can lead to a destructive or loud, demanding pig. Pigs are very time-consuming pets that require a lot of attention and time from their owners to be well-behaved members of the family.

+ What if I go on vacation?

Pigs bond very strongly with their parents and do not always respond well to them leaving. Pigs should never be dropped off at a dog kennel for boarding and a sitter who is familiar with the pig will need to be found. This person will need to know the pig’s behavior, schedule and what to do in case of an emergency. A pig may try to challenge any incoming caretaker or develop health issues (such as ulcers) due to the stress of their owner being gone.

+ How do I care for a piglet younger than 6 weeks?

Sometimes, people acquire a very young piglet from a friend who needs support, a shelter, or on Craigslist. If you have acquired a really young (neonatal) piglet, younger than 6 weeks, then this piglet requires around the clock care.

• If they are 1-2 days old, they need Colostrum IMMEDIATELY. We recommend an all-species formula like Manna Pro Colostrum Supplement.
• Once they are older than 24 hours, they need a milk replacer, such as Ultra 24 All Species Milk Replacer. We recommend syringe-feeding every 2 hours. Within a few days, you can teach pan feeding, by showing the piglet the formula in a shallow bowl/pan. Your piglet may have an energy crash shortly after feeding.
• Probiotics: give your piglet probiotics to help with the absorption of food.
• WARMTH: piglets and all neonatal animals need warmth, as they are typically snuggling with their litter-mates or mother. Add a heating blanket or heat lamp, as well as warm blankets. Use a pack-and-play, or some other soft contained area to keep this piglet.
• Monitor feces: healthy feces are solid and brown. Diarrhea is a sign of something wrong, and indicate that the piglet must be seen by a vet immediately.
• Extreme and sustained lethargy, or disinterest in food, is a sign of something wrong. Seek medical help immediately.

+ How do I transport my pig?

One of the most common issues that pig parents have is transport. Transport should never be a reason that your pig doesn't get medical care when needed, but we understand that it is also not easy to get your pig into a vehicle or crate. Here are some tips:

When trying to get a pig to do what you want:

• First, try working on their terms - no 'force' or reasons to heighten their prey-senses. Use high value treats to encourage them - their favorite foods! See if they will follow you. Once you start engaging with their prey senses, they won't be incentivized by food any longer and will kick into a fear-based, preservation mode. You may work at this for 1+ hours, patience is key!
• Work your pig into progressively smaller areas so you don't feel like you're starting from scratch if they change their mind and walk the other way! This might require setting up fencing prior to beginning the whole process of moving your pig.
• Sorting boards are something we use both to guide a pig into an area, and separate scuffles. If you have a pig, you should have a couple of these, but any strong flat board can also work. Keep in mind, that pigs are strongest at the points that are closest to the ground - so make sure your board is on the ground with your knees/shins against it if you're trying to keep your pig from leaving.
• Sorting boards can be used to box in your pig in preparation for a crate, or guiding them up a ramp into a vehicle.
• When pigs engage their prey-sensibilities, they enter into flight mode (not fight!). They want to get away from you, so use that to your advantage. If they're running away from you, they won't come towards you even if you have their favorite food, so position yourself in a way that's across from the direction you want them to run...think of them like the polar end of a magnet to you.

If your pig can fit into a crate:

• Put the crate into a corner of their space with treats inside.
• Create a chute (ideally out of more fencing that they can see through) and lure them into that space. Once inside the chute, close it off so they are now only in that smaller chute area. Work them towards the crate. Angle your hog board and use it to tap the ankles of their back feet if they freeze and stop taking steps.

If your pig is bigger and can't fit into a crate:

• You'll need a larger vehicle to transport your pig. Borrow or rent a van if you have to, especially if it means essential medical care!
• Use a ramp, steps (made from cinderblocks or other materials), anything to help their walk up into the vehicle. Try luring them with their favorite foods first. Ensure that all small exits are blocked so that they can't circumvent the plan.

Again, patience is key. Your pig may feel threatened by you because you're encouraging them to act in a certain way, but never ever use cruel methods like hitting, pinching, prodding, etc to get your pig into a vehicle or crate.

+ Should I get my pig a friend?

Pigs often do well when they have another pig companion, but it's not always guaranteed. Questions you may ask yourself include:

• Is my pig active already?
• Does my pig seem happy and busy?
• Does my pig lash out and seem needy? If your pig is inactive, lethargic, and lazy, your pig may benefit from a companion. But keep in mind, pigs don't just like other pigs because they are pigs (just as humans don't like all other humans).

Introducing a new pig to the family is a slow process. The pigs should share a fence but have separate enclosures as they get to know each other and work out their issues. There will be suffles as the pigs determine their heirarchy and resource access. Treat your pigs very equally, feed them adjacent to each other, and once they can be civilized through the fence with each other, work on integrating them in the same pen. Friendship may take months or years to fully develop.